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Floating Paradise on the Canal du Midi… Hotel Barge “Athos”!
I’m always extremely excited to accompany my clients on a luxury barge cruise, not just because I enjoy them myself, but because I love seeing how much my guests love them – especially if they have not been on one before! I really get a kick out of seeing first-time “bargers” amazement at how wonderful this experience really is. I was on board “Athos” on the Canal du Midi in June, with a group made up of both repeat and first-time guests. We had just spent 5 nights pre-cruise tour in Biarritz, a fantastic little town in Basque Country on the Atlantic coast. That was superb in itself, but following that with a barge cruise was heaven, especially that particular little slice of heaven that is Athos!
We boarded Athos at Marseillan, a charming little port village an hour south-west of Montpellier. When I say “port”, even though it’s only a stone’s throw from the Mediterranean, the port is actually on a huge saltwater lagoon, the Etang de Thau. This is a unique place to board a barge, because mooring points for barges are usually on canals… this one feels like you’re on the sea!
I was pretty thrilled when we were greeted by Tour Guide Matt, who I first met 12 years ago during his first season on board! In an industry where there are lots of seasonal staff (always fantastic mind you) it is really special to be welcomed back by an old friend. And he is an exceptional guide – one of those who eloquently paints a picture that truly makes history come alive. The Canal du Midi is so rich in history and it’s so much more captivating with someone like Matt!
So… on board we were welcomed by Matt and the crew – Claire and Emily our hostesses, Sylvain the chef and pilot Pierre-Yves, while champagne and nibbles were served. Then we settled into our cabins and unpacked before our first taste of the exceptional gourmet cuisine we were to be offered each day. And again, we hit the jackpot… Sylvain is one of the most talented chefs in the fleet! His gastronomic creations were a highlight of the week… it wasn’t long before every meal time we were positively drooling in anticipation of what was coming up!
Before leaving Marseillan on Monday morning, we did a little trot around the village and visited the Noilly Prat Vermouth distillery. I always thought of Vermouth as a drink my parents drank in the 70’s… but I am here to tell you, it’s soooooo good! Sweet, dry, served straight or in a cocktail… I am converted! It delicious! For inspiration for your next party, have a look here at some of the distillery’s suggestions!
After our first afternoon’s cruise we moored at Portiragnes, which is a short bike ride (or van transfer if you don’t feel like cycling) to the beach – now we really are on the Mediterranean! And there we stumbled across a fabulous beach shack restaurant where we sat with toes in the sand enjoying an evening coktail or two before returning to the barge. Actually to be honest, we didn’t stumble across it… this is an example of the crews on board the barges always knowing great local places to go, that you would never find on your own!
Tuesday was a pearler of a day, to use a very Aussie term! We visited the gorgeous village of Pezenas, an ancient hidden gem with a captivating history (again, brought alive by the fabulous Matt), stunning architecture, winding cobblestoned streets, and enticing little shops. It’s off the usual tourist route so just beautiful to walk around at leisure and not be fighting your way through the hordes! After returning to the barge and a delicious lunch on deck we crossed the 18th century aqueduct over the River Orb and begin the ascent of an 17th century feat of engineering, the Fonserannes Staircase Locks. There are 7 locks to go through, rising nearly 22 metres over a distance of 312 metres. This is such fun and we attracted quite a crowd onshore, watching our majestic lady Athos “rising” to the occasion! As you can see in the video, my guest and good friend Julia and I enjoyed the experience from the hot tub… and a few French rosés were consumed as we went!
Just going back to the lunching on deck “thing” – on the Canal du Midi the weather is beautiufully temperate and during the season from May to September most meals can be taken at the dining table on deck, which is one of my favourite highlights of any barge cruise. Soaking up the atmosphere of the village you’re moored in, or watching the beautiful countryside roll by as you cruise, and at the same time being pampered with a delicious meal and accompanying wines, is simply bliss. Athos also has a unique mechanical shade canopy on deck to protect guests from the sun, which is controlled by the pilot and is a fantastic addition to high standard of comfort of this barge!
Wednesday brought us to Narbonne, an historically rich market town which boasts numerous vestiges of ancient Rome and a magnificent medieval Cathedral. To top off a brilliant tour around town, we ended up in the market for lunch… a super fun experience I won’t go into here but you can see for yourself on my Instagram post!
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Thursday, something totally different to start the day, with an olive oil tasting at an 80 year old olive cooperative – yum – and then a spectacular drive through the hills to Minerve, classified among the most beautiful villages of France with a fascinating and blood-soaked history as a Cathar stronghold. Picture beautiful winding cobblestone streets and stunning views across a gorge… another day experiencing the beauty and diversity of this breathtaking region.
And Friday, our last day, was a show stopper with a trip to Carcassonne, the fairytale medieval walled city – in my opinion one of the most spell-binding sights in France! Once again Matt made history come alive as we walked among the fortifications and ancient streets before heading home for our last cocktails on deck and a scumptious final dinner created by Sylvain.
What a cruise! One of the many things I love about this cruise is the proximity of charming villages to the canal, so that while cycling along the towpath you can stop off for a coffee (or more wine! Or a local beer!) or of an evening, hop off the barge and wander into a local cafe or bar on the village square.
Life passes at a slow pace in the south of France, and the cruise is a wonderful combination of exploration and relaxation. Endless fields of lush green vines, rolling hills, sunshine and a superb Mediterranean “vibe”, sharing a week with fabulous people and the kindest and most attentive of crews… now you can understand why Athos is one of my favourite barges!